Cooler in the shades

SUNGLASSES are a pig to buy. Every time I go into David Clulow for my contact lenses, it's full of women frowning into mirrors as they try on prospective purchases.

Since my local branch is in Kensington High Street, it's hardly a revelation that most of them seem to be trying on Chanel, Dior or Gucci. I suppose Kensingtonians like the bold designer logos these brands incorporate into their shades.

There is another way, though.

In fashionable circles, the big, ostentatious sunnie has been usurped in popularity by the aviator. Unlike the bling-bling brashness of designer shades, the aviator shade is lo-fi and decidedly retro. Its droopylooking lenses lend the wearer an air of nonchalance, which is probably why they are such a hit with celebrities.

Air Jordan Retro

The ultimate nonchalant celebrity is Gwyneth Paltrow, a woman who looks so perpetually sardonic that poor Chris Martin must be a bucket of nerves.

Whether attending Chanel couture or Live8, Paltrow's aviators are always firmly in place.

She favours Ray-Bans (enquiries: 0800 435945), arguably the most classic brand of all, since they designed their first pair in 1936.

Hers have smoky grey lenses and thin gold frames, though Ray-Ban has a wide selection.

Aviator-wearers are born, not made. A heart-shaped face works best, although a long face can carry them off as well. If you have a round or wide face, then this is probably not the style for you: aviators are quite narrow, and will make you look as though your eyes are too close together, Miu Miu handbags like a monkey's.

Still, you could always experiment with a less challenging shape that allows you to get the look. Oliver Peoples ( peoples.com) has a Commander shade featuring less droopy lenses, while Linda Farrow Vintage (available at Harrods and Harvey Nichols) has a good selection of metalframed shades in different finishes.

Or head to Michel Guillon (020 7730 2142), where a special computer screen allows you to see how you look from all angles before you buy.

THIS WEEK WE'RE LOVING . A very sexy white bikini by Seafolly, an Australian label loved by surf girls everywhere.

Very Ursula Andress. Bikini top, Pounds 16 (down from Pounds 32), and bikini bottoms, Pounds 15 (was Pounds 30), from figleaves.co.uk . Fashion Brands (Pounds 18.99, Kogan Page), an incisive new book by journalist Mark Tungate, including quotes from those usually tight- lipped designers. 01903 828800 for enquiries.

. MS's classic T-shirt 3-packs - in a variety of colours, and only Pounds 15. This is what we want more of: good basics at a really good price. 020 7935 7954 for enquiries.

Nips and tucks with fine styling

WHILE some magazines are busy producing "Ultimate Plastic Surgery Guides", you can always count on Italian Vogue to go one better.

Possibly the best thing I've seen in a magazine ever, the August issue of Vogue Italia features a 70-page fashion story starring the world's most beautiful models enjoying various degrees of mutilation. Missy Rayder gets a tit job, Elise Crombez gets a nose job, while Linda Evangelista gets a facelift and liposuction.

Of course, it's all staged: models don't need improvement, after all.

But then again, does anyone? Less of a fas
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